Manufacturer wanted $25 (+shipping) for a replacement garage door opener wall switch. 13 minutes of printing + 5 minutes of soldering + two leftover Cherry MX Blue switches (that I’ll be use) and the problem is solved 👍
Note: The wiring was slightly more involved than I thought… needed a resistor for the light (there’s only two wires but it’s got two functions: Light on/off and garage open/close.
If folks are interested I could make a much fancier PCB-based version with screw terminals and whatnot. It’s a very trivial schematic.
Very resourceful, I like it.
Added benefit: you’ll definitely hear it if someone tries to open the garage door and steal all your stuff in the middle of the night
CLACK
This is so stupid, but I love it so much. 🤣 I’m tempted to give it a try, but I’m worried that once I get used to mechanical switches on my garage door opener - I’ll need them throughout the rest of the house too.
Do it! Normal garage door openers are good for like 1,000 cycles (if that, haha). With these switches it should be good for 50 million.
You have to replace the door hinges and rollers a few times to get that life.
Very cool
Put me down as interested in the whole shebang!
I should do this with the one in my car; the stock don’t work very good
Curious, wouldn’t waterproofing be an issue? Or is this on the indoor side of the garage?
It’s inside the garage so water isn’t an issue.
Having said that I would have no trouble at all making a version of this that’s waterproof! For that though I’d make a PCB and use my own magnetic key switches (Void Switch)…
https://youtu.be/iv6Rh8UNWlI?si=HLxDopztmpPDVTVI
When I made that keyboard for Chyros I asked him if he wanted it to be waterproof and he said no so I never bothered but it’s not very difficult to do such a thing when your entire keyboard is contactless.
The “key” is to use waterproof connectors or just solder the wires directly to the PCB. Then you just coat the whole thing in silicone sealant (or similar e.g. seal it with epoxy, Flex Seal, etc). The chips don’t care and hall effect sensors will still work just fine through any non-ferromagnetic coating (e.g. any plastic or hydrocarbon-based material).
Did you complete the PCB?
Nah. The inlaws seem to be satisfied with the way it is right now and I’ve got better things to do 🤷